I've decided to copy all my posts on the Blazer into a new page and then put all updates on the Blazer in that page.
-20°F this morning. High today is supposed to be about 10°F, low tonight about 7°F, high tomorrow about 25°F. Maybe I can get some outside work done tomorrow.
Gas is STILL at 1.899. Hard to believe it has been stable for this long.
Gotta run to a meeting. When the electrician arrived to hook up the two new racks we made a discovery: Although the spec sheets we got from the vendors say each rack should draw about 35-40 amps, the UPS packages in the racks are rated at 100 amps. At 40 amps each rack plus the existing servers we would have maxed out our 100 amp panel. Under normal circumstances the racks may only draw 40 amps, but we can't wire for that, we need to wire for max load. If we do not then we will for sure blow the main breaker and take down the entire server farm the first time we attempt to draw full load. So, we need to add two new 100 amp panels. In the next two working days. Not likely, the electrician needs to order the panels. So, it looks like we will need to re-schedule Tuesdays planned arrival of the GE and EMC and Quantum implementation teams.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Brakes
Both the Voyager and the Horizon's brake fluid reservoirs were empty. How weird is that? No obvious leaks either, and, with them being parked on snow and ice right now, any leak is pretty obvious.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Hasn't slowed down yet - and won't for weeks
Received two new racks in the server room at work today: One from HP with 15 servers already installed; the other is our new EMC NS20 Celerra with 20 TB of drives installed:
L-R: Jim K, Jim J, the new NS20, and myself
Drove Vger today for the first time in over a week. I've gotten lazy: I didn't do a proper systems check before I put the car in gear. I don't have to use the brakes to stop at the end of the driveway, it's uphill to the road. I don't have to use the brakes to stop at the end of the road, it's uphill to the pavement. The first place I have to use brakes at is when I get to Hwy 2. I came screaming up to the intersection, hit the brakes, and was sure I was going to die: the pedal went to the floor. Fortunately, I was already downshifting (I LOVE manual trannies), and there is just enough brake pedal to hold the car in position. I still need to make it back home tonight. Then I have to figure out what has happened. The red Horizon had no brakes the last time I tried to move it a couple of weeks ago; it has an automatic trans, so I noticed the problem right away and it never left the parking spot.
Blazer: Hasn't used any oil, but haven't had a chance to upgrade from the Wal-Mart oil yet. Bought plugs, wires, cap, and rotor last weekend, but had a touch of a stomach bug and with the sub-zero temps never got to install them. Matt and I did get new hinge pins installed the weekend before on the driver door, it still sags seriously, but not as bad as before. We also rebuilt the bottom of the door with foam. The problem with the hinges is that the pins had gone thru the bushings and had worn into the hinges themselves, so the bushings are actually slopping in the hinges. I see three options: weld up the holes, get new hinges, get used doors. I'm holding out for complete doors. Since it also needs new window tracks I think that would be the best way, just need to find decent doors at a decent price.
Really need to change oil in the transmission, transfer case, and both diffs, as well as a chassis lube. Also, it badly needs at least 2 tires and a spare. Thought I was going to get them last Saturday, had an appointment at 10 AM at Warba Tire to get two used tires and a rim, but by 11 AM the store was still closed, so I gave up.
Rear brakes do not appear to be working, so I will need to open them up soon, but after I get a couple of other cars to be road worthy.
Gotta get busy configuring the NS20.
L-R: Jim K, Jim J, the new NS20, and myself
Drove Vger today for the first time in over a week. I've gotten lazy: I didn't do a proper systems check before I put the car in gear. I don't have to use the brakes to stop at the end of the driveway, it's uphill to the road. I don't have to use the brakes to stop at the end of the road, it's uphill to the pavement. The first place I have to use brakes at is when I get to Hwy 2. I came screaming up to the intersection, hit the brakes, and was sure I was going to die: the pedal went to the floor. Fortunately, I was already downshifting (I LOVE manual trannies), and there is just enough brake pedal to hold the car in position. I still need to make it back home tonight. Then I have to figure out what has happened. The red Horizon had no brakes the last time I tried to move it a couple of weeks ago; it has an automatic trans, so I noticed the problem right away and it never left the parking spot.
Blazer: Hasn't used any oil, but haven't had a chance to upgrade from the Wal-Mart oil yet. Bought plugs, wires, cap, and rotor last weekend, but had a touch of a stomach bug and with the sub-zero temps never got to install them. Matt and I did get new hinge pins installed the weekend before on the driver door, it still sags seriously, but not as bad as before. We also rebuilt the bottom of the door with foam. The problem with the hinges is that the pins had gone thru the bushings and had worn into the hinges themselves, so the bushings are actually slopping in the hinges. I see three options: weld up the holes, get new hinges, get used doors. I'm holding out for complete doors. Since it also needs new window tracks I think that would be the best way, just need to find decent doors at a decent price.
Really need to change oil in the transmission, transfer case, and both diffs, as well as a chassis lube. Also, it badly needs at least 2 tires and a spare. Thought I was going to get them last Saturday, had an appointment at 10 AM at Warba Tire to get two used tires and a rim, but by 11 AM the store was still closed, so I gave up.
Rear brakes do not appear to be working, so I will need to open them up soon, but after I get a couple of other cars to be road worthy.
Gotta get busy configuring the NS20.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Cold - and busy
Don't have much time, but if I don't get some of this down I will forget it.
On Sun 1/11 gas in GR was 1.949, in Bemidji it was 1.799. Yesterday 1/12 in GR gas dropped to 1.899.
Last Wednesday 1/7 I changed the oil (as I mentioned I was planning in the last post) to Wal-Mart SuperTech 5w-30. Having the oil filter remotely mounted on the fenderwell is very nice. I need to get a coffee can to add to my toolbox to put under the filter when I change it. The oil oil was very thick. Oil pressure went waay down with the new oil.
On Saturday 1/10 I changed the oil and filter again. It was very black (as expected). I put in Wal-Mart SuperTech 5w-30 Synthetic this time. Oil pressure is still very low. At cold start oil pressure is about 50 PSI. At warm idle, maybe 5 PSI. At highway speeds warm it runs about 20 PSI. I'm guessing that the engine probably needs bearings, need to investigate further.
I'm planning on changing the oil again, probably next payday. Since it doesn't appear to be using any oil yet I will most likely go to either Mobil1 0w-30 or Valvoline 5w-30 synthetic and see what happens.
I changed the temp sending unit on Saturday also. The temp gage still fluctuates wildly. I need to get an OBD scan tool hooked up and see what the computer is actually seeing.
Found two wires chopped and looped around one of the thermostat housing bolts when I changed the thermostat. Had to chop the wires off, the nuts and wires and stud were too corroded to remove properly. I put a crimp on lug on the wires and grounded it on another bolt. I need to get a wiring diagram and find out what those wires are for and where they are supposed to go.
Picked up an AC Compressor pulley bypass at O'Reilly's. It's a Dorman part. Unbolted the seized up compressor, bolt the idler pulley in (it's a LOT harder than it sounds!). Put the new Serpentine belt on. Much quieter, and looking at the old belt I note that I was NOT seeing the worst parts of it. It was missing some serious chunks.
Haven't fixed the doors or hinges yet. The hinge pin press from Eastwood arrived yesterday, the hinge spring compressor from Eastwood should arrive tomorrow. So, maybe this weekend.
Got to do something about the doors. We had -30°F this morning. Drivers door was frozen shut. Other doors were locked, and the key wouldn't go in the keyhole. I've kept Vger plugged in, so I drove it this morning. It's -18°F right now. Hope to thaw the door enough to find out how it starts tomorrow morning.
On Sun 1/11 gas in GR was 1.949, in Bemidji it was 1.799. Yesterday 1/12 in GR gas dropped to 1.899.
Last Wednesday 1/7 I changed the oil (as I mentioned I was planning in the last post) to Wal-Mart SuperTech 5w-30. Having the oil filter remotely mounted on the fenderwell is very nice. I need to get a coffee can to add to my toolbox to put under the filter when I change it. The oil oil was very thick. Oil pressure went waay down with the new oil.
On Saturday 1/10 I changed the oil and filter again. It was very black (as expected). I put in Wal-Mart SuperTech 5w-30 Synthetic this time. Oil pressure is still very low. At cold start oil pressure is about 50 PSI. At warm idle, maybe 5 PSI. At highway speeds warm it runs about 20 PSI. I'm guessing that the engine probably needs bearings, need to investigate further.
I'm planning on changing the oil again, probably next payday. Since it doesn't appear to be using any oil yet I will most likely go to either Mobil1 0w-30 or Valvoline 5w-30 synthetic and see what happens.
I changed the temp sending unit on Saturday also. The temp gage still fluctuates wildly. I need to get an OBD scan tool hooked up and see what the computer is actually seeing.
Found two wires chopped and looped around one of the thermostat housing bolts when I changed the thermostat. Had to chop the wires off, the nuts and wires and stud were too corroded to remove properly. I put a crimp on lug on the wires and grounded it on another bolt. I need to get a wiring diagram and find out what those wires are for and where they are supposed to go.
Picked up an AC Compressor pulley bypass at O'Reilly's. It's a Dorman part. Unbolted the seized up compressor, bolt the idler pulley in (it's a LOT harder than it sounds!). Put the new Serpentine belt on. Much quieter, and looking at the old belt I note that I was NOT seeing the worst parts of it. It was missing some serious chunks.
Haven't fixed the doors or hinges yet. The hinge pin press from Eastwood arrived yesterday, the hinge spring compressor from Eastwood should arrive tomorrow. So, maybe this weekend.
Got to do something about the doors. We had -30°F this morning. Drivers door was frozen shut. Other doors were locked, and the key wouldn't go in the keyhole. I've kept Vger plugged in, so I drove it this morning. It's -18°F right now. Hope to thaw the door enough to find out how it starts tomorrow morning.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Blazer Update
Picked up the window guides, serpentine belt, hinge bushings last night on way home. Installed guides (broke one before I remembered to WARM THE PLASTIC UP! (10°F is too cold), then discovered that I had another problem. The Window Channels are worn so badly that the guides still do not work. A set of window channels for 2 doors is $160 from LMC Truck, so that will have to wait. For now, the windows are back on track and rolled up. Also discovered that there is a guide at the front of the window also, so there are two guides per window.
If you hold on to the window as you lower and raise it (so it doesn't fall off the track) you can open and close them, but that requires both hands. Not too big of a deal right now, don't usually drive around opening and closing the windows at this time of year, but need to fix before summer.
The windows on the back door (which were also down) were just sticky, a little lube in the channels went a long way to freeing them up. When we get a warmer weekend I may open those doors up and clean and lube the mechanism, but not right now.
The inner door panels use plastic "christmas tree" clips. In this cold weather they do not come out or go back in without breaking. I will need to get a bunch of clips, but I'm going to wait. The panels are held on (for now) by the two screws in the handles. When/if I get new doors I'll worry about the clips. Maybe just put a couple of sheet metal screws around the edges and call it good enough. I'm not after pretty right now, I'm after usable.
I'm holding off on the serpentine belt for a bit. The AC clutch is howling, and the AC compressor is seized. The belt is available AC or non-AC; if the non-AC belt will work to bypass the compressor I will do that and return the AC belt. First, I need to figure out if that will work. Life was simpler back when the AC had a separate belt, but I really would rather change a serpentine belt than have to replace the inner of four belts (changing all four because, as long as ya got them all off you may as well!).
I've ordered a door hinge spring compressor and door hinge pin press from Eastwood Co. I have (and have had) multiple uses for them, so they will be a good addition to the toolbox.
The bushings I bought last night were generic bushings. I think I will order new pins with brass bushings from Amazon; they should arrive about the same time the tools do. For some reason, even though they are Dorman parts and O'Reilly's sells Dorman, O'Reilly's does not sell the part numbers I need for the Blazer. The set of 4 pins for the two front doors cost more than the tools do.
Dried out the front passenger door and used gorilla tape and foam to seal the bottom. Time will tell, but the gorilla tape IS super sticky. Will save the drivers door for when we do the hinge pins.
Gonna pick up an air filter and oil filter on way home today and change the oil tonight. The air filter is solid black, can't see ANY light thru it, I don't think I've ever seen one so plugged. Should make the engine run much better. I've 6 quarts of Wal-Mart SuperTech 5w-30 conventional oil on hand, I'll use that for now and then change in a week or so to a new filter and synthetic oil. It probably will do it good to flush some of the crap out before putting synthetic oil in. I'm going to use O'Reilly's "MicroGard" line of filters; they are well spoken of as cheap but good filters in several forums on the 'net.
Probably do the temp sensor this weekend. I see that whoever replaced it last used a liberal amount of Teflon Tape on it. The manual says "no sealer", I seem to recall that sealer is a no-no because you do NOT want it insulated from the engine. I think I will pick up a thermostat, gasket, radiator cap, and two gallons of antifreeze and drain the cooling system this weekend. I'm pretty certain that it is a couple of years overdue for that service.
I see I forgot a repair on my previous post. On Saturday, the day after we got it home, I went out to find the left rear tire flat. Discovered a 10p nail in it, pulled it out and plugged it with one on my on-hand flat repair kits. Seems to be holding air to date.
Project costs to date:
Tax/Title/License $90
Tools:
Door hinge spring compressor $20
Door hinge pin press $35
Blow dryer $8
Parts:
Gorilla tape $3
minimal expanding foam 2 cans at $4ea
Hinge bushings 383742 $5
Window guides 45330 2 pr at $5ea
Window crank 76947 $13
Serpentine Belt (AC) K060956 $16
Temp sensor WT3000 $12
Fuse assortment kit $5
Pair 2057 Taillight bulbs $5
Door handle 77112 $19
Rod clip assortment 75450 $4
Fuel Filter 33481 $7
Fuel line repair kit 2 at $16ea
Keys $10
Current total including tools, parts, tax, license: $300
If you hold on to the window as you lower and raise it (so it doesn't fall off the track) you can open and close them, but that requires both hands. Not too big of a deal right now, don't usually drive around opening and closing the windows at this time of year, but need to fix before summer.
The windows on the back door (which were also down) were just sticky, a little lube in the channels went a long way to freeing them up. When we get a warmer weekend I may open those doors up and clean and lube the mechanism, but not right now.
The inner door panels use plastic "christmas tree" clips. In this cold weather they do not come out or go back in without breaking. I will need to get a bunch of clips, but I'm going to wait. The panels are held on (for now) by the two screws in the handles. When/if I get new doors I'll worry about the clips. Maybe just put a couple of sheet metal screws around the edges and call it good enough. I'm not after pretty right now, I'm after usable.
I'm holding off on the serpentine belt for a bit. The AC clutch is howling, and the AC compressor is seized. The belt is available AC or non-AC; if the non-AC belt will work to bypass the compressor I will do that and return the AC belt. First, I need to figure out if that will work. Life was simpler back when the AC had a separate belt, but I really would rather change a serpentine belt than have to replace the inner of four belts (changing all four because, as long as ya got them all off you may as well!).
I've ordered a door hinge spring compressor and door hinge pin press from Eastwood Co. I have (and have had) multiple uses for them, so they will be a good addition to the toolbox.
The bushings I bought last night were generic bushings. I think I will order new pins with brass bushings from Amazon; they should arrive about the same time the tools do. For some reason, even though they are Dorman parts and O'Reilly's sells Dorman, O'Reilly's does not sell the part numbers I need for the Blazer. The set of 4 pins for the two front doors cost more than the tools do.
Dried out the front passenger door and used gorilla tape and foam to seal the bottom. Time will tell, but the gorilla tape IS super sticky. Will save the drivers door for when we do the hinge pins.
Gonna pick up an air filter and oil filter on way home today and change the oil tonight. The air filter is solid black, can't see ANY light thru it, I don't think I've ever seen one so plugged. Should make the engine run much better. I've 6 quarts of Wal-Mart SuperTech 5w-30 conventional oil on hand, I'll use that for now and then change in a week or so to a new filter and synthetic oil. It probably will do it good to flush some of the crap out before putting synthetic oil in. I'm going to use O'Reilly's "MicroGard" line of filters; they are well spoken of as cheap but good filters in several forums on the 'net.
Probably do the temp sensor this weekend. I see that whoever replaced it last used a liberal amount of Teflon Tape on it. The manual says "no sealer", I seem to recall that sealer is a no-no because you do NOT want it insulated from the engine. I think I will pick up a thermostat, gasket, radiator cap, and two gallons of antifreeze and drain the cooling system this weekend. I'm pretty certain that it is a couple of years overdue for that service.
I see I forgot a repair on my previous post. On Saturday, the day after we got it home, I went out to find the left rear tire flat. Discovered a 10p nail in it, pulled it out and plugged it with one on my on-hand flat repair kits. Seems to be holding air to date.
Project costs to date:
Tax/Title/License $90
Tools:
Door hinge spring compressor $20
Door hinge pin press $35
Blow dryer $8
Parts:
Gorilla tape $3
minimal expanding foam 2 cans at $4ea
Hinge bushings 383742 $5
Window guides 45330 2 pr at $5ea
Window crank 76947 $13
Serpentine Belt (AC) K060956 $16
Temp sensor WT3000 $12
Fuse assortment kit $5
Pair 2057 Taillight bulbs $5
Door handle 77112 $19
Rod clip assortment 75450 $4
Fuel Filter 33481 $7
Fuel line repair kit 2 at $16ea
Keys $10
Current total including tools, parts, tax, license: $300
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Blazer
Hah! What a way to start the New Year!
Got a steal on a 1992 Chevy Blazer Tahoe 4x4. It was unwanted, in too poor of shape to fix or drive. Seriously, that was the owners opinion.
Drove 70 miles to get it. Put in a battery (from the Gladiator), put some air in the tires, added a quart of oil and a half gallon of antifreeze to the engine, and drove it home. Well, maybe not quite that simple, but close.
It has been sitting for over a year, maybe nearly 2 years. The windows don't roll up, there was nearly a foot of snow on it and more inside it that had to be dug out. It's been used as a trash receptacle, filled two garbage cans with dirty diapers and other trash. Someone ripped the radio out of the dash. Most of the fuses were missing. Had to replace some light bulbs. The drivers door is about to fall off the hinges. The left passenger door doesn't open from the outside.
Back up and start over.
It really was buried in the snowbank, behind/under snow pushed up by the plow. Didn't have a shovel or even a snow brush (what WAS I thinking?), so I brushed most of the snow off the hood and windshield with my hands. Installed the battery, added oil and antifreeze. Started the engine, took a few cranks and a few coughs and wheezes, didn't want to idle at first, but then it smoothed out. Put it in 4 Lo and drove it out of the snowbank. Yep, no shoveling, except with hands to get the snow out of the seat.
Was then able to see that the only tire with air in it was the right front. Used my air tank to get about 10 psi in the other three tires and drove it about a mile to the nearest gas station with an air hose. Very slowly. Got all the tires up to 35 psi, put $20 gas in the tank, scraped more of the ice off the windshield and freed up the wiper blades, and started for home.
Got over 30 mph and it had a horrible vibration. Discovered a big chunk of ice on the inside of the left rear wheel, but didn't have anything in reach to knock it out with. Seemed to run and stop OK other than the vibration. ABS not working.
Got about 5 miles from home and the engine started coughing and sputtering going up a hill. Fortunately, the turn off the highway was soon after and then I was on a county road, because I couldn't get over 30 mph after that. Made it to the road in front of the house before the engine died. Didn't want to start, but finally got it running enough to get into the driveway. Hmmm.
About an hour later I tried it and it fired right up and seemed to run smoothly. Plugged fuel filter maybe? So, I drove it down to the neighbor's garage and jacked it up and crawled under it to look for the fuel filter. Found it, still bolted to the frame, but the fuel line had been chopped off about 6 inches either side and the filter was bypassed with a cheap piece of rubber hose and a couple of spring clamps. Mind you, this has an electric fuel pump in the tank pushing about 30-60 psi thru the line. I'm thinking "I could have gone up in a ball of flame at 60 mph on the way home". Ouch. A genny A-Hole job. That was Friday.
I was a bit concerned about getting title to the Blazer. I've been thru this before; get a fixer-upper and then not be able to get title. So, on Saturday after getting a clear title to it and new plates and tags, I'm ready to start working on it.
While looking under the hood I notice that the electrical connectors on the ABS are disconnected, plug them in.
OK, first repair. Go buy a new fuel filter and two line repair kits, about $50. I'm thinking "if the fuel filter isn't plugged, it has to be either the injector or the pickup sock on the fuel pump." So, before I installed the new filter, I put some air pressure on the line back to the pump. "Fwump!" I think I heard the sock pop off. So, if this works, I will need to replace the fuel pump, but not today.
Fired up, runs good. Wedge the windows up, they are off the roller lift and off the guides. Screws in the armrests are buried under ice and snow. Filled it up with gas, drove it around town, and let it run for about 10 hours non-stop with the heater going full blast. Dig two cans of trash out of the vehicle, vacuum as much of the snow and mud and ice and water out of the carpet and seats as I can at the car wash. Never a sputter, no drips under the vehicle when parked for several hours idling in one spot.
Crawl under the dash and find the fuse box. Most of the fuses are gone. Start replacing fuses and Ta Da! dash lights, turn signals, horn, brake lights, parking lights, gauges, all start working. Left taillight seems to be on the bright side all the time, replace the broken 2057 bulb with a new one and it starts working properly.
Drivers door sags about 3 inches when open. Hinge bushings are gone. Dorman Bushing kit is about $5 at O'Reilly's, so I plan on picking up one of them on the way home tonight as well.
The drivers door window crank was off and in the door pocket, when I looked it I could see that there were no teeth left on the inside of the crank. Picked up a new one when I got the handle, $14.
The Temp gauge sits at the bottom peg and then, after it warms up, hits the top peg, causing a "Check Gages" warning light to come on. A new temp sending unit is about $17.
The Serpentine belt has some missing chunks, about $36.
Need to drain the black sludge out of the crankcase. At this point I don't see any oil leaks, so I'm going to put some Wal-Mart brand synthetic oil in and see what happens; if it works then I will upgrade to a better synthetic next oil change. $40
I want to get a pair of new front doors, about $175 each for new shells. That's not going to happen real soon, I've got leads on some used ones but haven't heard anything back yet. So, for now, I think I will put some gorilla tape over the holes and maybe some foam-in-a-can to seal it up. Last night while working on the drivers door I had quite a battle getting the snow and ice out of the door so I could fix the handle. Blow dryer works, need to find my heat gun.
New front fenders are about $100 each.
New fuel pump is about $100.
It has two OK rear tires, 235/75/R15 on the rear, and two marginal 235/75/R15 tires on the front. Door sticker recommends 205/75R15. I figure I should be able to get 4 new 205/75/R15 M+S tires for about $520.
Need to find a spare tire. Haven't actually measured it yet, but I think these are 4.75 on 5 rims, not 5 on 5 like the rest of my 15" GM rims. And, they are not the steel rims but the aluminum ones, although I'd take a steel one for a spare.
So, roughly speaking, I think I've got a winter beater 4x4 for about $200, and a pretty decent 4x4 possible for well under $2000. Better deal than the Red Horizon.
What a steal. As soon as I get a few moments I will get a photo and add it to my Vehicle Summary lineup.
Got a steal on a 1992 Chevy Blazer Tahoe 4x4. It was unwanted, in too poor of shape to fix or drive. Seriously, that was the owners opinion.
Drove 70 miles to get it. Put in a battery (from the Gladiator), put some air in the tires, added a quart of oil and a half gallon of antifreeze to the engine, and drove it home. Well, maybe not quite that simple, but close.
It has been sitting for over a year, maybe nearly 2 years. The windows don't roll up, there was nearly a foot of snow on it and more inside it that had to be dug out. It's been used as a trash receptacle, filled two garbage cans with dirty diapers and other trash. Someone ripped the radio out of the dash. Most of the fuses were missing. Had to replace some light bulbs. The drivers door is about to fall off the hinges. The left passenger door doesn't open from the outside.
Back up and start over.
It really was buried in the snowbank, behind/under snow pushed up by the plow. Didn't have a shovel or even a snow brush (what WAS I thinking?), so I brushed most of the snow off the hood and windshield with my hands. Installed the battery, added oil and antifreeze. Started the engine, took a few cranks and a few coughs and wheezes, didn't want to idle at first, but then it smoothed out. Put it in 4 Lo and drove it out of the snowbank. Yep, no shoveling, except with hands to get the snow out of the seat.
Was then able to see that the only tire with air in it was the right front. Used my air tank to get about 10 psi in the other three tires and drove it about a mile to the nearest gas station with an air hose. Very slowly. Got all the tires up to 35 psi, put $20 gas in the tank, scraped more of the ice off the windshield and freed up the wiper blades, and started for home.
Got over 30 mph and it had a horrible vibration. Discovered a big chunk of ice on the inside of the left rear wheel, but didn't have anything in reach to knock it out with. Seemed to run and stop OK other than the vibration. ABS not working.
Got about 5 miles from home and the engine started coughing and sputtering going up a hill. Fortunately, the turn off the highway was soon after and then I was on a county road, because I couldn't get over 30 mph after that. Made it to the road in front of the house before the engine died. Didn't want to start, but finally got it running enough to get into the driveway. Hmmm.
About an hour later I tried it and it fired right up and seemed to run smoothly. Plugged fuel filter maybe? So, I drove it down to the neighbor's garage and jacked it up and crawled under it to look for the fuel filter. Found it, still bolted to the frame, but the fuel line had been chopped off about 6 inches either side and the filter was bypassed with a cheap piece of rubber hose and a couple of spring clamps. Mind you, this has an electric fuel pump in the tank pushing about 30-60 psi thru the line. I'm thinking "I could have gone up in a ball of flame at 60 mph on the way home". Ouch. A genny A-Hole job. That was Friday.
I was a bit concerned about getting title to the Blazer. I've been thru this before; get a fixer-upper and then not be able to get title. So, on Saturday after getting a clear title to it and new plates and tags, I'm ready to start working on it.
While looking under the hood I notice that the electrical connectors on the ABS are disconnected, plug them in.
OK, first repair. Go buy a new fuel filter and two line repair kits, about $50. I'm thinking "if the fuel filter isn't plugged, it has to be either the injector or the pickup sock on the fuel pump." So, before I installed the new filter, I put some air pressure on the line back to the pump. "Fwump!" I think I heard the sock pop off. So, if this works, I will need to replace the fuel pump, but not today.
Fired up, runs good. Wedge the windows up, they are off the roller lift and off the guides. Screws in the armrests are buried under ice and snow. Filled it up with gas, drove it around town, and let it run for about 10 hours non-stop with the heater going full blast. Dig two cans of trash out of the vehicle, vacuum as much of the snow and mud and ice and water out of the carpet and seats as I can at the car wash. Never a sputter, no drips under the vehicle when parked for several hours idling in one spot.
Crawl under the dash and find the fuse box. Most of the fuses are gone. Start replacing fuses and Ta Da! dash lights, turn signals, horn, brake lights, parking lights, gauges, all start working. Left taillight seems to be on the bright side all the time, replace the broken 2057 bulb with a new one and it starts working properly.
Sunday night (evening Jan 4) we saw -30°F. Monday morning I went out to try to drive the Blazer to work. Lifted the door handle and it went flying. OK, so I went in thru the passenger door. It started after a few tries and groans and grunts. I try to push open the drivers door, seems to be frozen shut. Well duh, after warming the car up all day Sunday and then being this cold it might be frozen shut. I let the car warm up for about 15 minutes, then try again. I can get the top of the door to open a few inches, but then can't get it closed. OK, I'll drive Vger to work.
Monday on the way home from work I picked up a Dorman replacement handle, $20 at O'Reilly's. Pull off the door panel, hose everything down with TriFlow and get the latch, lock, and window mechanisms working freely. I'm working in an unheated garage, it's about +10°F and I'm using a little portable propane sunflower to warm my hands up with. I try to snap the rod into the plastic keeper on the new handle and it snaps; just too darn cold to expect plastic to be flexible. So, hop in the Suburban (neighbor's car) and head back to O'Reilly's and buy an assortment of rod clips for $4. Find one that kinda sorta fits, warm up all the peices with a hair dryer, and install. Hey! I can now open the drivers door from outside again.
While the door is apart I look at the window situation. The drivers door window is the only one that stays up, but when I try to roll it down the front of the glass falls down pulling the upper back corner out of the track and showing me the guide that is supposed to keep the glass on the track. I already know that the other windows do NOT have the little guide clip on them, so I need to get four of them. I hope to get those tonight on the way home, O'Reilly's has the Dorman replacement part, $5 for 2, I need 4.
Drove it to work today. Runs good, Drivers door opens and closes and locks and unlocks.
The left rear door doesn't open from the outside, so I'm planning on getting another door handle this weekend and then I'll tear into that door, $20.
Drivers door sags about 3 inches when open. Hinge bushings are gone. Dorman Bushing kit is about $5 at O'Reilly's, so I plan on picking up one of them on the way home tonight as well.
The drivers door window crank was off and in the door pocket, when I looked it I could see that there were no teeth left on the inside of the crank. Picked up a new one when I got the handle, $14.
The Temp gauge sits at the bottom peg and then, after it warms up, hits the top peg, causing a "Check Gages" warning light to come on. A new temp sending unit is about $17.
The Serpentine belt has some missing chunks, about $36.
Need to drain the black sludge out of the crankcase. At this point I don't see any oil leaks, so I'm going to put some Wal-Mart brand synthetic oil in and see what happens; if it works then I will upgrade to a better synthetic next oil change. $40
I want to get a pair of new front doors, about $175 each for new shells. That's not going to happen real soon, I've got leads on some used ones but haven't heard anything back yet. So, for now, I think I will put some gorilla tape over the holes and maybe some foam-in-a-can to seal it up. Last night while working on the drivers door I had quite a battle getting the snow and ice out of the door so I could fix the handle. Blow dryer works, need to find my heat gun.
New front fenders are about $100 each.
New fuel pump is about $100.
It has two OK rear tires, 235/75/R15 on the rear, and two marginal 235/75/R15 tires on the front. Door sticker recommends 205/75R15. I figure I should be able to get 4 new 205/75/R15 M+S tires for about $520.
Need to find a spare tire. Haven't actually measured it yet, but I think these are 4.75 on 5 rims, not 5 on 5 like the rest of my 15" GM rims. And, they are not the steel rims but the aluminum ones, although I'd take a steel one for a spare.
So, roughly speaking, I think I've got a winter beater 4x4 for about $200, and a pretty decent 4x4 possible for well under $2000. Better deal than the Red Horizon.
What a steal. As soon as I get a few moments I will get a photo and add it to my Vehicle Summary lineup.
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